Things to do in Vlatos, western Crete’s Village of Peace and Culture: Attend intimate Vlatos Jazz Festival in a candlelit historic church, join vibrant panigyri feasts with music & dance, hike scenic trails in Park of Peace amid olive groves, visit folklore museum & ancient churches, explore nearby Topolia Gorge, Elafonisi beach, and Milia eco-village. Authentic Cretan adventures await! (
Get ready for some Cretan magic at #HORECA2026 in Athens! This Friday (Feb 13, 16:45–17:30), Chef Vasilis Makrakis from Milia Restaurant will present ‘When Cretan tradition transforms into a contemporary gastronomic experience’ at the Gastronomy Lab. Sustainable Cretan flavors meet modern innovation – can’t wait! #CretanCuisine #Gastronomy #Crete”
Program for HERACO Athens 2026
Προετοιμαστείτε για κρητική μαγεία στο #HORECA2026! Την Παρασκευή 13/2 (16:45–17:30), ο σεφ Βασίλης Μακράκης από το Milia Restaurant παρουσιάζει «Όταν η κρητική παράδοση μεταμορφώνεται σε σύγχρονη γαστρονομική εμπειρία» στο Gastronomy Lab. Βιώσιμες γεύσεις & καινοτομία – ανυπομονούμε! #ΚρητικήΚουζίνα #Γαστρονομία #Κρήτη
Could well be a movie title equivalent to Dances with wolves? Sure, if this was not the case that the co-owner and restorer of the medieval settlement that became Milia Mountain Retreat (a local “Green Man” in his overwhelming passion for Nature preservation and species protection), Giorgos Makrakis, wouldn’t put it in practice. Committed to practicing absolute recycling of resources, Giorgos often drives to the sloping sides of the mountains around Milia and disposes of organs and bones from dead animals on his farm, in order for the predator birds (vultures) that fly over him throughout his life to have a meal.
Predator birds in Crete, vultures of two different kinds, the Gypaetus Barbatus and the Gyps Fulvus, are often seen over the sky of Milia, with the second being the most common species. The Gyps vulture has a wingspan of 260cm and a body length of around 97 – 104 cm, slightly smaller than its family, the Gypaetus, with 270 cm wingspan and body length ranging between 102 and 114 cm.
The “Gyps and Co” fly in smaller or larger groups, and their color can be distinguished easily with binoculars; the feathers of the collar are white short for an adult, who has a white-gray head and neck, brown to white-gray plumage. This species is known for only eating dead flesh, which practically means that it can rather cause awe than a threat, as it does not attack anything moving.
The bigger Gypaetus has an off-white head and chest, square wings, black back, and a long tail, is rare in the area and very difficult to reproduce. It is being fed exclusively by bones, thus the remaining part of the others’ meal, which practically means that Nature knows better in terms of recycling.
Unbelievable or adventurous as it may seem, the practice of feeding the vultures is for Giorgos not more important than cleaning an old stone fountain from its dirt, coming up with an owl’s nest, and placing it on a tree where she is seen to frequent, or rushing to unblock a goat’s horns that got trapped at the fence. Preserving natural and cultural elements alike, this persisting local is used to still be keeping old tree trunks found around Milia, wood that was once used for construction and is still strong enough for potential re-use, especially if it comes from amazingly smelling trees, such as cedars.
Don’t take him wrong, though, he will not drive you around for vulture feeding if you happen to visit Milia for a relaxing stay. Nor will he point out where these awe-inspiring birds (the “ornea” in Cretan dialect) frequent for the lunch that he provides them with. By now he knows, they never show up if anybody approaches out of curiosity or to take photos. It is a different deal they have with him, and it is about mutual respect, a kind of intimate relationship, and rare proximity. Thus they approach, yes, but only when he is alone. They even recognize his car.
There are no certain skills required to fall in love with a chestnut tree; she is audacious, classy, and casual at the same time, passively aggressive to enemies, and courageous, at the same time. She is a living miracle.
As you are packing for your winter travel, space, weight and time are to be considered, but not when you are about to enter the chestnut forest of Milia, where space and time vanish. As it happens in every romance, that is worth being named as such.
So if you’re spending your winter vacation around the area of western Crete, get ready for the perfect winter love affair, that follows the hiking and sightseeing parts of your trip; the chestnut tree is your other half.
The common chestnut (Castanea sativa) of the northern hemisphere, is widespread in the mountainous areas of western Crete, and gives edible fruits, a product that has long been a source of income to the locals -and to the inhabitants of Milia, as well, since the 16th century. It is a large tree with long leaves, which can reach a height of 30 m, although the average ranges from 12 to 15 m.
What is poetic about her, is the fact that the “male” and “female” flowers are formed on the same plant, but separately, awaiting the proper touch of Nature in order to come together. Sounds like a fairytale, extracted from some previous centuries’ romantic literary genre? That and more, the “male” parts are united in upright florets and appear in July, whereas the “female” ones are born united in groups, at the ends of the branches, inside a spiny sheath. And, at some unexpected moment in late September and early October, we just eat her autumn fruits!
Of the fruit-bearing varieties of this species, the most important are the “Chestnuts of Pelion” (in Central Greece) and the “Chestnuts of Crete”. The climate should be temperate and humid. It withstands the winter cold but needs a warm and sunny location to grow well, bloom, and complete the ripening of its fruits. It is pleasant to be thinking of the chestnut tree as your romantic relationship. You’ll typically need three layers to protect yourself from a winter cold or a bad romance; one to wick, one to insulate, and one to protect. But the chestnut tree is not of the kind. She is tender and comprehensive in her attitude, needs care, however. Are you willing to jeopardize your strong character and your attitude? She, too, has a shelter of spines. Take a lesson out of this relationship, no one is to be hurt if taken care of with respect and…slowly.
You already know the feeling: the hush in the 150-year-old stone church, candles flickering, the first note floating through perfect acoustics straight to your heart.Now imagine that magic… every single Sunday from June 28 to September 27. Front row. Every time. No stress, no saving seats — just you, right there, breathing every chord, every groove, every moment.The 2026 VIP Season Ticket gives you exactly that:
Ilias Zoutsos and Spyros Loukos at Vlatos Jazz Festival with audience
Guaranteed front-row seats for all 14 concerts
Priority entry & the best sound/view in our legendary venue
A meaningful way to support the cultural society that keeps this unique acoustic jewel alive
Only €199 for the full season — incredible value for 13 unforgettable evenings. Very limited availability — these sell out fast every year.If Vlatos Jazz already feels like home to you, this is how you become part of its inner circle.Claim your VIP pass before they’re gone → https://www.vlatos.gr/event/vlatos-jazz-season-ticket/We can’t wait to see you in the front row again #VlatosJazz #VIPPass #FrontRowMagic #AcousticJazzCrete #Summer2026 #CreteHiddenGem
But never mind that we live under a big NATO bubble and hence the problems people face when using GPS on Crete. Nestled in the rugged Kissamos region of western Crete, the villages of Vlatos and Innachorio (also known as Inachori, now part of Kissamos municipality) offer a wealth of peaceful hiking (click here for more info about hiking around Vlatos) amid olive groves, chestnut forests, and dramatic mountain slopes at around 500–600 m elevation. These areas feature easy-to-moderate trails perfect for nature lovers seeking serene escapes rather than intense gorge descents.OpenStreetMap excels here as a free, community-updated resource with detailed trail mapping. View and explore paths directly on OpenStreetMap.org (search for “Vlatos, Kissamos, Crete” or zoom to coords ~35.39°N, 23.65°E). Key highlights include:
Park of Peace Trails (Vlatos outskirts): Interconnected easy loops (4–6 km total, 1–2 hours, <150 m elevation gain) through meadows, pines, and olive terraces—ideal for picnics and birdwatching. Well-marked and visible on OSM.
Vlatos to Milia Eco-Village: Moderate 5–7 km out-and-back (2–3 hours, ~200 m gain) along old mule paths to the sustainable chestnut-forest hamlet of Milia.
Vlatos to Elos Chestnut Trail: Easy-moderate 6 km linear path south into Innachorio, connecting to chestnut groves and village charm.
E4 European Long-Distance Path sections: The renowned E4 weaves through Innachorio’s landscape (traceable on OSM via waymarkedtrails.org or directly on OSM layers). Enjoy scenic village-to-village links and extensions toward Elafonisi’s iconic pink-sand beach (e.g., 12–15 km moderate coastal-mountain stretch from Livadia area westward).
October shines for visits, with mild 20–25°C temps and golden autumn foliage. Trails are generally well-marked but rocky in spots—wear sturdy shoes, carry water, and download OSM-based apps like OsmAnd (excellent offline maps & navigation) or Organic Maps for reliable routing without cell signal. For broader planning, cross-reference with AllTrails or Wikiloc, but OSM provides the most current, community-sourced detail for this authentic, off-the-beaten-path corner of Crete. Happy trails!
S08.E12 Tetraicho FULL CONCERT VIDEO – Last night’s performance by Tetraicho (Four Sounds) at Vlatos Jazz was a mesmerizing fusion of tradition and whimsy that left the crowd roaring with delight. This quartet—three virtuoso violinists (Maria Manousaki, Michalis Loufardakis and Markos Renieris) and one masterful laouto player (the one and only Kyriakos Stavrianoudakis, Crete’s own rhythm section)—brought raw, unscripted magic to the stage. Remarkably, three members can’t read or write music, yet they rank among the finest talents west of Crete, their intuition and years of communal playing weaving spells no notation could capture.The highlight? Their electrifying reinterpretation of “Pirates of the Caribbean” and manu other popular tunes. Gone was the orchestral bombast; in its place, swirling violin lines evoked crashing waves and swashbuckling chases, the laouto’s earthy twang grounding the frenzy like a salty sea anchor. The violins danced in harmonious chaos—plucked strings mimicking rigging snaps, bowed melodies summoning ghostly ships—building to a crescendo that had the audience on their feet, clapping and cheering wildly.In a cozy jazz venue nestled in Crete’s hills, Tetraicho’s authenticity shone. No scores, just pure expression from souls steeped in island lore. It was joyous, innovative, and utterly unforgettable—a testament to music’s power beyond the page. If you’re near Chania, catch them next time; your ears (and heart) will thank you.
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Tetraicho’s Swashbuckling Strings: ‘Pirates’ & More Reimagined at Vlatos Jazz 2025
Tetraicho’s ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ Adventure: Spellbinding Strings at Vlatos Jazz 2025
Tetraicho performs at Vlatos Jazz Summer 2024
Tetraicho Short – Vlatos Jazz Summer 2023
S07.E15.P2 Tetraicho – Vlatos Jazz Summer 2023 Part 2
S06.E13 Tetraicho – Vlatos Jazz Summer 2023 Part 1
S08.E10 – This video of the Vlatos Jazz event captures a vibrant and soulful performance set against the rustic charm of Vlatos, Crete. The scene opens with the stage bathed in stark monochrome, emphasizing the textures of the instruments and the expressive movements of the musicians. Master saxophonist Duke Guillaume, hailing from Brooklyn, New York, takes center stage, his presence commanding yet warm. His saxophone gleams under the stage lights, its curves and keys popping in the high-contrast visuals, creating a dramatic focal point.The rhythm section is introduced first, setting the tone with a tight, groovy foundation. Stefan Olofsson on piano lays down intricate chords, his fingers dancing across the keys with a crisp clarity that the black-and-white palette accentuates, giving each note a visual weight. Lefteris Papadakis on bass delivers a deep, resonant pulse, his upright bass standing tall in the frame, its dark silhouette grounding the ensemble. Giannis Paterakis on drums adds dynamic flair, his sticks a blur of motion, the high contrast amplifying the energy of his rhythms as cymbals shimmer in sharp white bursts.Duke Guillaume steps forward to lead with one of his original compositions, a piece that blends fresh jazz and soul vibes with a modern edge. The camera captures close-ups of his saxophone, the keys glinting as he weaves intricate melodies, his body swaying with the music’s flow. The high-contrast effect heightens the emotional intensity, casting deep shadows that mirror the soulful depth of his playing. The rhythm section locks in seamlessly, their interplay a visual and sonic dance of light and dark tones.Next, the band shifts to a “golden oldie,” a classic jazz standard that brings a nostalgic warmth to the set. Maria Manousaki joins on violin, her entrance a striking moment as her bow cuts through the air, the strings catching the light in sharp relief. Her playing adds a lyrical, soaring quality, the high contrast emphasizing the delicate yet powerful strokes of her bow. The ensemble’s chemistry is palpable, with the black-and-white aesthetic lending a timeless, almost cinematic quality to the performance, evoking the feel of a classic jazz club.The set closes with an all-time classic, a rousing number that brings the house down. The camera pans across the stage, capturing the musicians’ expressions—Duke’s focused intensity, Stefan’s subtle grin, Lefteris’s steady groove, Giannis’s rhythmic drive, and Maria’s passionate flourishes. The high-contrast visuals amplify the energy, with bright highlights on the instruments and deep shadows creating a moody, immersive atmosphere. The crowd, though not always visible, can be felt through the music’s infectious swing, leaving a lasting impression of a night filled with jazz magic.
S08.E09 – A Night of Musical Magic Under the Stars — Last night, Vlatos Jazz Summer 2025 delivered an unforgettable evening at the charming Vlatos Jazz venue, nestled in the heart of Crete’s lush landscape. The starlit sky and cool summer breeze set the perfect stage for an extraordinary performance by Paul Meller (guitar and composition), joined by his prodigiously talented children, Maxim Meller on dukduk and bass clarinet, and Elysia Meller on violin. The event drew a vibrant crowd, including a notable contingent from nearby Perivolia, whose presence added a warm, communal spirit to the night. From the outset, Paul Meller’s masterful guitar work anchored the performance with a blend of technical precision and soulful expression. His compositions, both original and reimagined, showcased his deep musicality and ability to weave narratives through sound. The trio’s chemistry was palpable, with Maxim and Elysia bringing youthful virtuosity and emotional depth to the stage, elevating the concert to something truly special. The setlist was a delightful mix of classic and original works. The ensemble’s renditions of Erik Satie’s hauntingly minimalist *Gymnopédies* and Jacques Brel’s emotive *Ne me quitte pas* were breathtaking. Paul’s delicate guitar phrasing intertwined seamlessly with Elysia’s ethereal violin, which danced with a celestial grace, while Maxim’s dukduk and bass clarinet added rich, unexpected textures that grounded the pieces in a fresh, contemporary jazz idiom. Their interpretation honored the originals while infusing them with a modern, improvisational flair that captivated the audience. The highlight of the evening was an original composition by Paul Meller, dedicated to the strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo), a beloved feature of the Vlatos and Perivolia landscape. This piece was a poetic tribute, blending earthy rhythms with soaring melodies that evoked the tree’s vibrant red fruit and evergreen leaves. Maxim’s soulful bass clarinet solo, layered over Elysia’s lyrical violin and Paul’s intricate guitar, painted a vivid sonic portrait of the Cretan countryside. The audience was visibly moved, with many exchanging knowing smiles, as if the music had captured the very essence of their surroundings. The intimate setting of Vlatos Jazz, with its open-air ambiance and rustic charm, amplified the experience. The stars twinkling above seemed to mirror the trio’s sparkling interplay, and the cool night air carried the music effortlessly to every listener. The crowd, including the honored guests from Perivolia, responded with rapturous applause, their enthusiasm a testament to the trio’s ability to connect deeply with their audience. In just under an hour and a half, the Meller family delivered a performance that was both technically dazzling and emotionally resonant. Vlatos Jazz Summer 2025 has set a high bar with this concert, proving once again why this venue remains a gem for music lovers. If last night was any indication, the rest of the season promises to be extraordinary.
S08.E08.P01 – Last night, under a velvet canopy of stars in the heart of Vlatos, the air thrummed with romance as the renowned accordionist Kate Dunphy from New York took the stage at Vlatos Jazz. Joined by the soulful violin of curator Maria Manousaki and the steady, resonant pulse of Crete’s own Lefteris Papadakis on bass, the trio wove a spell that left the audience breathless, hearts entwined in the warm August night. The setting was pure magic—a rustic outdoor venue cradled by the Cretan hills, where the soft glow of lanterns mingled with the starlight above. As Kate’s accordion breathed its first notes, the crowd hushed, drawn into a world where every melody felt like a whispered love letter. Her fingers danced across the keys, coaxing out famous standards that carried the weight of nostalgia—tunes like “La Vie en Rose” and “Besame Mucho,” each note infused with a longing that seemed to pull the stars closer. Yet it was her original compositions that stole the evening, their haunting beauty unfurling like a secret shared between lovers. Each melody was a story, tender and evocative, painting images of moonlit walks and promises made in quiet moments. Maria Manousaki’s violin was the perfect partner, its strings singing with a passion that matched Kate’s accordion note for note. Maria’s playing was both fiery and delicate, her bow weaving intricate countermelodies that wrapped around Kate’s lead like a warm embrace. There were moments when their eyes met, a silent conversation of artists lost in the music, their chemistry palpable and electric. Lefteris Papadakis anchored the trio with his double bass, his deep, resonant tones grounding the ethereal interplay above. His steady rhythm was the heartbeat of the night, a reminder of love’s quiet constancy beneath its soaring highs. The warm air seemed to carry the music further, wrapping the audience in an intimate cocoon. Couples leaned closer, hands clasped, as the melodies stirred memories of first loves and fleeting glances. Even those alone found themselves swaying, caught in the romance of the moment, as if the music itself was a partner inviting them to dance. The trio’s synergy was effortless, each musician anticipating the others, creating a sound that felt both timeless and deeply personal. As Kate transitioned into one of her own compositions, the mood shifted to something even more profound. The piece began softly, almost hesitant, like the first confession of love, then swelled into a crescendo that felt like the rush of falling headlong into devotion. The audience was transfixed, some with eyes closed, others gazing at the stars, all united by the shared experience of beauty so pure it ached. The night ended too soon, as all perfect moments do, but the final notes lingered in the air, reluctant to fade. Applause erupted, warm and heartfelt, a collective thank you for a performance that felt like a gift. As we wandered back into the night, the music stayed with us, a reminder of love’s ability to connect, to uplift, to make even a fleeting evening feel eternal. Kate Dunphy, Maria Manousaki, and Lefteris Papadakis didn’t just play music—they crafted a love story under the Cretan sky, one we’ll carry in our hearts forever.
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S02.E09.P01 Kate Dunphy | Maria Manousaki Vlatos Jazz 2019 I
S02.E09.P02 Kate Dunphy | Maria Manousaki Vlatos Jazz 2019 II
S02.E09.P03 Kate Dunphy | Maria Manousaki | Chris Quinn Vlatos Jazz 2019 III
S02.E09.P04 Kate Dunphy | Maria Manousaki | Cody Geil "Dream" Vlatos Jazz 2019
S02.E09.P05 Kate Dunphy | Maria Manousaki | Cody Geil La vie en rose Vlatos Jazz 2019
Kate Dunphy’s Enchanted Accordion Tale with Manousaki & Papadakis at Vlatos Jazz 2025
Kate Dunphy’s Romantic Accordion Rhapsody with Manousaki & Papadakis at Vlatos Jazz 2025 P2
S08.E07.P02 – Last night, August 10, 2025, the Vlatos Jazz Festival in Crete’s serene village of Vlatos delivered a mesmerizing performance under a glowing full moon. Ilias Zoutsos, a virtuoso of the Cretan Lyra, joined forces with the brilliant pianist Spyros Loukos in a genre-defying set that left the audience spellbound in which he orchestrated famous classical pieces for his lyra. Nestled among olive groves and bathed in a gentle summer breeze, the open-air venue—an ancient stone church—provided an intimate, almost magical backdrop for this sonic journey.Zoutsos, a master of both traditional and innovative soundscapes, wielded his lyra with breathtaking finesse, reimagining classical compositions like Erik Satie’s Gymnopédies with the lyra taking the role of the first violin. The haunting, delicate notes of the lyra floated through the night, blending Satie’s minimalist elegance with a distinctly Cretan soul. Loukos’ piano responded with a crystalline touch, his chords echoing the wistful melancholy of the originals while weaving in subtle jazz flourishes that felt both modern and timeless. The interplay was seamless, each musician amplifying the other’s emotional depth.The duo’s daring crossover peaked with their rendition of an old Cretan song, where Loukos’ piano ingeniously mimicked the rhythmic pulse of a Cretan lute. Zoutsos’ lyra soared, its raw, earthy tones carrying the weight of tradition while dancing with contemporary flair. The fusion was electrifying—a dialogue between past and present that felt like a love letter to Crete’s musical heritage, reimagined through a jazz-classical lens. The audience, a vibrant mix of locals and travelers, sat rapt, their faces illuminated by candlelight and moonlight, swaying to the music’s hypnotic pull.The warm summer night, cooled by a gentle breeze, amplified the intimacy of the performance. Every note seemed to resonate with the surrounding mountains, creating a shared moment of transcendence. Zoutsos and Loukos didn’t just perform; they crafted a sonic tapestry that honored tradition while pushing boundaries. This was Vlatos Jazz at its finest—a night of musical alchemy that lingered long after the final note faded.